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CHATTER
“The positive qualities are accentuated,” says Michael Anthony, who is now
the chef at Gramercy Tavern in Manhattan but cooked sous vide when he was
a chef with Barber at Blue Hill. “The
seasoning, the salt, the spices that you add
to the bag—even the fats and the flavors
from the liquid—is amplified in there.”
It’s a truer flavor than, say, in a braise—
another method of slow cooking over low
heat. Consider, says Barber, what happens
when you braise a piece of lamb in stock.
Some of the stock flavor will infuse into the
lamb. Some of the lamb flavor will infuse
into the stock. And some of the stock will
evaporate—its flavor gone forever.
“Sous vide allows you to keep more of
that flavor intact,” Barber says.
McGee agrees.
“You get what a person who likes
it would say is the pure flavor of that
meat,” he says.
NOTHING NEW UNDER THE SEAL
If you don’t take the “under vacuum”
moniker literally, people have been cooking sous vide style for a very long time.
Ever had the Mexican dish from the
Yucatán called cochinita pibil? The dish
originated with the Mayans, who dug a
hole, put some hot coals in the bottom,
wrapped a piece of pork in banana leaves,
put it on top of the coals and covered it
with dirt. The meat was wrapped, covered
and cooked under pressure over low heat
for a long time. (Today the dish is still
cooked wrapped in banana leaves, but you
can make it in a Dutch oven and it comes
out just fine.)
But it was in the 1970s, in Roanne,
France, where the modern practice got its
start. Chef Claude Troisgros at Troisgros,
a Michelin three-star restaurant, wanted
a way to keep less of his foie gras from
melting away in the hot pan. Georges
Pralus, who today calls himself le roi—the
king—of sous vide, figured out that if he
sealed and poached foie gras, it wouldn’t
shrink nearly as much.
It was a revelation, and it soon became a
popular technique with such well-respected
chefs as Paul Bocuse and Joel Robuchon.
Robuchon, realizing the technique could
be applied outside haute cuisine, paired
with scientist Bruno Goussault and created
