COCK TAIL
dollars, and that his likeness is on
every single one of them must be
especially sweet.
As it turns out, the rebuilding
of Washington’s long-abandoned
distillery coincides with rye whiskey getting its own makeover. The
many small distilleries that made
rye, once a staple of early American
life, in Pennsylvania and the mid-Atlantic states were shut down during Prohibition—and most never
opened again.
George Washington opened
his distillery at Mount Vernon
in 1797, two years before his
death. The Virginia distillery
is once again producing its
popular rye whiskey.
RYE’S WAKE-UP CALL
Rye’s long hibernation has been
blamed on a host of causes, from
thirsty Americans getting used to
smuggled Canadian whiskey during Prohibition to the rise of clear
spirits like gin and vodka. Rye, with
its strong, sharp flavor, has fallen
out of favor as a mixer during the
last few decades and become an
alcohol has-been.
“For a long time we were one of the small handful
of distilleries that were making rye,” explains Larry
Kass, director of communications for Heaven Hill
Distilleries, the company that many say spearheaded
rye’s revival. “All of us were in Kentucky and made
bourbon anyway, and we like to say that even now,
we spill more bourbon every day than we make rye
whiskey all year long.”
Heaven Hill’s Rittenhouse Bottled-in-Bond Rye
DWhisky is a kind of icon for rye’s newfound popu-on’t be fooled by the dour de- larity. In 2006, the drink won awards as best North
meanor on every $1 bill—George American whiskey and best value in whiskey—a
Washington was a lot of interest- rare pair of honors that makes sense for the exqui-ing things, including sitely complex and woefully under-whiskey-making appreciated rye.
entrepreneur who presided over one “People who are looking for
of the nation’s largest distilleries. Last that next frontier of flavor in
September, the first two bottles of rye American whiskeys are discover-to come out of Washington’s Mount ing rye,” Kass says. “Because peo-Vernon distillery in more than 200 ple have become so interested in
years were auctioned off for $100,000 bourbon and so educated—and so
at a fundraising event—probably the appreciative—they’re wondering
most expensive bottles of American what else they didn’t know about
whiskey, ever. American spirits.”
Somewhere, Washington might In 2006, members of the Distilled
be smiling over the fact that his busi- Spirits Council of the United States
ness venture is again raking in the (Heaven Hill is not a member) sold
PHOTOS: WIN MCNAMEE/GETTY (TOP), COURTESY OF MOUNT VERNON LADIES’ ASSOCIATION (ABOVE)
The Rebirth of Rye
George Washington wasn’t just a
fan of rye whiskey—he was its most
famous maker. Today, the Colonial
American spirit is regaining popular-
ity—and Mount Vernon is once again
at the center of it all | BY JOSH KRIST