and preserves, and tea breads and pas-tries. The menu tells the story of how
teas became popular in the Victorian
era, after the Duchess of Bedford got a
little peckish between meals.
STORY TIME
It really is about those stories. When I
sat down at the mahogany Round Robin Bar at the Willard InterContinental
Hotel in Washington, D.C., earlier this
year, I didn’t much care whether the
mint julep was well-balanced. I cared
more that I may have been sitting in the
same exact space where Senator Henry
Clay, the gentleman from Kentucky,
introduced Washingtonians to the cocktail in the 1850s.
“Preservation of the experience is
vital to people’s lives,” says Roche. He
may be hyperbolizing, but only a little.
“It provides people with meaningful
connections to their past.”
And they’ll create new memories for
themselves in the meantime. Roche’s
wedding was all the more memorable, he
says, because he had it at the Greyfield
Inn on Cumberland Island off the coast of
Georgia, “on a remote outpost of civilization.” No phone, no television, and the
staff brought his box lunch to the beach.
“It conjures up images of the past,”
he says. “We felt like the Carnegies.”
After the wedding, instead of heading
to the bar at the big-box, convention
center hotel, they rolled up their pants
legs and walked on the beach.
I know what he means. While I do
wish I could have been at Dorothy
Parker’s round table at the Algonquin, somehow it’s enough for me to
remember the two nights I spent at the
hotel when I was 9 years old. In the
Oak Room, my mother and my grandmother were giggling, practicing blowing smoke rings. My younger sister
and I, bored with the adult antics, were
ordering Shirley Temple after Shirley
Temple. Finally, the waiter caught on.
“Is it the drinks you’re after?” he
asked, “or just the cherries?”
We confessed. We wanted the maraschino cherries. He brought us a plateful.
I remember it as if it were yesterday.
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