COCK TAIL
The problem may be one of perception. Thanks to the success of a few mass-market brands that emphasize sweetness
over subtlety, cider is sometimes thought
of as an unsophisticated drink. But such
an approximation would be off the mark,
especially for the discerning taster.
“Cider can be every bit as complex as
wine,” says Richard Scholz of Bierkraft, a
specialty food and drink shop in Brooklyn,
N. Y., that carries 20 cider varieties. “Just as
good wines don’t remind you of grape juice,
the best ciders go beyond a simple apple
essence and become something more.”
It’s a delicate art. Although it’s true
that hard cider is nothing but the pressed
juice of apples left to ferment until sparkling with carbonation, the cidermaker
has a kaleidoscope of options when it
comes to varieties and flavors that will be
expressed in the finished product. There
are three main flavor components: sweetness, acidity (or tartness) and tannins,
which come from the skin and seeds.
“A good cider will have a good amount
of tannins that give it some texture,” says
Matt Maples of Liquid Solutions in Oregon City, Ore., a mail-order distributor
of high-end beer, cider, coffee, tea and
wine. “You’re also looking for a balance
of sweetness and acidity.”
Some even claim that terroir, the
French idea that a place’s soil and atmospheric conditions can be expressed in
a local drink’s fermented form, applies
to cider, too. Perhaps. The main thing to
keep in mind is that cider isn’t as simple
as you might think. Many of the top versions come in wine-sized bottles with
champagne-style corks, ideal for gifts or
parties. “It makes a great summertime
barbecue drink,” Maples says.
The Big Apple
They’re not all as American as
apple pie. From New Hampshire to
France, here are a few cider picks
available for shipping (be forewarned, rules vary by state, and
supplies are limited).
1. JK Scrumpy’s
Orchard Gate Gold
Michigan • $6.17/22 oz
“It’s unfiltered, the old farmhouse
style,” Matt Maples of Liquid Solutions says of this organic version, “so
there’s a little yeast on the bottom. It’s
a touch sweet, but it’s got character,
fresh apple taste and good acidity.”
2. Aspall Dry Cider
England• $6.30/500 ml
“Hands down the best English cider
I have tried,” writes Maples on his
website. “Fresh flavor, well-placed
acidity and a good tannin structure.
Crisp, sparkling and flavorful.”
3. Wandering Aengus
Medium Dry
Oregon • $12.05/750 ml
This tiny cider maker in Newberg,
Ore., uses all-organic cider apples
from the area, blending the juice
from French, British and American
heirloom varieties.
4. Manoir du Park Pear
France • $7.55/750 ml
Maples says of this traditional perry
(cider made from pears): “Light in
body, plenty of carbonation. Dry,
with a well-placed but not overpowering acidity. Nice and tart finish.
A bit of tannin for good texture.”
5. Farnum Hill
Extra Dry Cider
New Hampshire • $16/750 ml
“Hands down one of the best,” says
Richard Scholz of Bierkraft. The 7. 5
percent alcohol version is “made with
old-fashioned techniques, blending
several varieties of apples. Very dry;
fruity without being sweet.”
6. Organic Etienne
Dupont Cidre Bouché
Brut de Normandie
France • $9.99/750 ml
When the current proprietor hands
over the reins to his son, it will be
the sixth generation of cidermakers
to run Domaine Familial Louis Dupont, founded in 1837, which also
produces Calvados (apple brandy).
Crisp, golden and sweet.
7. Bordelet Sydre Argelette
France • $21/750 ml
Made with biodynamic principles
from 19 apple varieties grown in the
Loire Valley, this dry, aromatic cider
is one of the most rarefied in the
world. It also comes in a handsome,
wax-topped bottle.
Where to Buy
Ciders 1–4: Liquid Solutions
(503-496-1942, liquidsolutions.biz)
Ciders 5–7: Bierkraft
(718-230-7600, bierkraft.com)
