Oleana
134 Hampshire St., Cambridge, 617-661-0505
A trip over the Charles River to
Cambridge’s Oleana restaurant
turns into a mini Mediterranean vacation
for adventurous eaters. Chef and owner
Ana Sortun relies on her years of travel to
North Africa, the Middle East and Europe
for her inspiration, as well as her commitment to using organic produce from
her husband’s farm. Sortun weaves exotic
spice combinations into such dishes as
Top: Gracie’s Alaskan King Crab legs,
roasted red and yellow beets, beet
reduction, micro arugula. Bottom:
Banana & chocolate terrine, banana
cake, chocolate ganache, brittle crunch,
banana gelee, espresso chocolate mousse.
local fried mussels with tarator sauce and
hot peppers, warm and buttery hummus,
and tuna and barley couscous.
Providence, R.I.
Our smallest state’s capital city is big
on flavor and talented chefs. As Providence grows, so does its restaurant
scene—with chefs who pay close attention to local waters and farmland.
MuMu Cuisine
220 Atwells Ave., 401-369-7040
For too long, Federal Hill was
about the only place to get a good
meal in Providence, and this mostly
Italian neighborhood still cooks up
great dishes. But, ironically, the stand-
out on At wells Avenue is a Chinese
restaurant—MuMu Cuisine. Smoky
and rich tea-smoked duck; Mongolian
hot pot (not on the menu, but worth
asking for); and whole, steamed sea
bass are standouts. But even the most
pedestrian of Chinese food standards
(scallion pancakes, Peking ravioli and
General Gao’s chicken) are carefully
prepared and made from fresh and
brightly flavored ingredients.
Al Forno
577 S. Main St., 401-273-9760
Johanne Killeen and George
Germon of Al Forno also offer
more than their fair share of the exciting dining in Providence. After 20 years
on the scene, they still challenge our
sensibilities with grilled pizzas, pastas
baked in a wood-burning oven, and
made-to-order desserts that, no matter
how full our bellies are, we want—no,
need—to devour.
La Laiterie
188 Wayland Ave., 401-274-7177
It started with their cheese shop
next door (Farmstead), and now
Matt and Kate Jennings have a sit-down restaurant to further expand
their culinary pursuits. They, of course,
offer a great cheese platter, as well as
a mac ’n cheese that dreams are made
of. Other highlights include sautéed
chicken livers topped with crispy fried
onions and bacon (you may need a nap
after ward) and their house-made
charcuterie selection.
Gracie’s
194 Washington St., 401-272-7811
For a while, it was the place chefs
hung out at on their night off before
it quickly grew into a hot spot for great,
simple foods. Chef Joe Hafner doesn’t
stray too far from farm-fresh ingredients
(which he often pickles), and has a real
penchant for locally available fresh sea-
food. The menu follows the seasons and
what arrives at Hafner’s kitchen door—if
you’re lucky you might sample sautéed
mustard greens topped with fennel, squid
and mussels.
New York
Culling the best restaurants in New
York City is nearly impossible given
the sheer number of great restaurants
and extraordinary talent. But with great
respect to all of Manhattan’s chefs and
restaurateurs, right now these operations are knocking it out of the park.
Little Owl
90 Bedford, St., 212-741-4695
Tucked into a small, 30-seat, Green-
wich Village storefront, this Italian
eatery is an irresistible and impressive
gem—neither bells nor whistles, just
straightforward and elegant cooking.
Chef Joey Campanaro earned his chops
(and, by the way, his grilled pork chops
are thick, succulent beauties that make
one question why pork is so often dry and
flavorless) under the talented chef Jimmy
Bradley (Red Hat, the Harrison and
Mermaid Inn). The small space requires
some patience, but the staff are friendly
and have uncommonly good dispositions.
If for no other reason, come for the meat-
ball “sliders.” These little wonders are
causing a sensation as meaty and moist,
one-and-a-half bite miracles.
Babbo
110 Waverly Place, 212-777-0303
Mario Batali, the man with the or-
ange clogs and bombastic personal
style, is no stranger to creating great
restaurants. Any of his spots is a good bet
for a really good meal, but Babbo in the
Village is the standout. Pastas are Batali’s
strength, with choices that include hand-
cut “chitarra” (as in guitar strings) with
sweet, oven-dried tomatoes and bot-
targa (salty and rich preserved fish roe);
