have increased by double digits annually
since 2006, according to Organic Trade
Association estimates. Sales then were
just $90 million, a miniscule portion of
the U.S. wine market, but growing.
“It’s not just something that’s in
vogue,” Lefcourt says. “It’s part of a
consciousness that’s coming about in
terms of food and wine in general.”
Organic vs. Biodynamic
Natural wines can be complex in more
ways than one. To start with, organic
and biodynamic denote two agricultural
practices, whereas the word natural
usually refers to how the wine is made
in the winery. Organic grapes are grown
without synthetic chemicals, using natural methods such as crop rotation and
natural composts.
Biodynamics is like organics with
an advanced degree. The practice is
based on the 1920s teachings of Austrian
Rudolf Steiner and represents a system
of agriculture that views farms as living
organisms connected to the environment. It means organic farming, but also
includes other practices—planting and
harvesting grapes based on the cycle of
the moon, for example.
“It goes back to old-time farming.
Then, farmers were also plowing and
harvesting by the lunar calendar,” says
Barbara Shinn, who owns Shinn Estate
Vineyards on Long Island’s North Fork.
She and her husband, David Page, have
adopted organic and biodynamic practices at their vineyard and are convinced
the process yields nutrient-rich grapes
that result in higher-quality wines.
Shinn Estate is not currently certified organic or biodynamic, although the
couple intends to pursue certification.
And they’re not alone. More winemakers
are taking the rigorous steps to become
certified. (The U.S. Department of Agriculture regulates organics, and the nonprofit association Demeter oversees
biodynamics.) Many others are adopting
the practices but are forgoing certification for a variety of reasons.
Debate over certification is becoming
increasingly controversial, however, as
more winemakers promote their wines as
organic or biodynamic. “Certification is
of the utmost importance, especially now
that green is so important,” maintains
Kathy Benzinger of Benzinger Family
Winery, which produces wine from four
certified biodynamic vineyards in California’s Sonoma County.
Even within the USDA’s organics
program, not every certified organic
wine label is the same. A wine labeled
“100 percent organic” can contain only
organically produced ingredients and no
added sulfites, a controversial rule because sulfites exist naturally in wine and
because additives are used as stabilizers and are permitted in Europe. Wines
labeled “Made from organically grown
grapes,” however, can contain a small
amount of added sulfites.
Terroir Gone Wild
Rules and regulations aside, the real
test is in the tasting. The fact that some
winemakers are taking environmentally
conscientious steps and limiting the
use of farming chemicals is all well and
good, but not if the end result goes down
like astringent. As with all wines, quality
varies from one producer to another,
but proponents of natural wine say this
variation reflects the flavor of the vineyard, not manipulation in the winery.
“The message in biodynamic wine is
the ability to bring the vineyard through
into the bottle,” Demeter executive
director Jim Fulmer says. “It’s all about
leaving the wine alone, letting the grapes
define the wine.”
That authenticity is something customers are craving, says Scott Pactor,
owner of Appellation Wine & Spirits,
a Manhattan wine store dedicated to
natural wines. “Three-quarters of our
customer base is looking for wine that not
only happens to be good, but wine that
has a sense of place, wine that tastes different from what they’ve had before.”
It’s a Natural
Try these three American wines that offer
great quality for the price. They’re available online through the winemakers’
websites, or ask your local purveyor to
recommend an interesting organic or
biodynamic wine.
Shinn Estate 2005 Estate Merlot
($27): A blend of merlot and cabernet
franc grown in Long Island, with hints
of red plum, chocolate and vanilla
( shinnvineyard.recipesfromhome.com).
Robert Sinskey 2005 Vandal
Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon
($48): Flavors of black currant and
herbs, produced from the Napa
Valley winery’s certified biody-
namic vineyards
( robertsinskey.com).
Madonna Estate 2006
Chardonnay ($26.50): Third-
generation grower Andrea
Bartolucci practices organic
farming methods in the Car-
neros region of California
( madonnaestate.com).
