Cocktail
White Varietals Are the Spice of Life
Skip the chardonnay this summer.
From arneis to verdejo, bust out of
your same old white wine habit
BY KARA NEWMAN
Summer is prime time for white wines. They are crisp,
refreshing, often served chilled and a perfect pair with
lighter, warm-weather fare.
But when it comes to the whites, we always try the
same tired varietals: Chardonnay. Sauvignon blanc.
Pinot grigio. Riesling. Each can be wonderful, but there’s
a whole world of really interesting and unusual whites
out there to try. This summer, think “ABC”: anything
but chardonnay.
Experts such as Belinda Chang, wine director at New
York’s The Modern, are finding excitement among these
fresh, aromatic whites, and suggest drilling down into
wine menus to scout them out. Although more commonly
found wines may be allotted their own section within a
wine menu, other selections may be gathered together as
orphans under the heading “Other White Wines.”
Viognier
Chile
“This is one of the most interesting
white wines,” Chang says, and it’s
easy to identify, thanks to its heady
floral and stone-fruit fragrance.
“You put your nose in and you always
know what it is.” Despite the sweet,
almost perfume-y scent, viognier’s
flavor is relatively dry, making it a
favorite for blending with other wines
to add balance and aromatics. This
is not a wine built for aging, Chang
says, so look for new releases (2007
or 2008).“You want to drink it when
the fruit is popping.”
2008 Casa Silva Viognier, $10;
2008 Cono Sur Viognier, $10
Muscat
Alsace, France
Grown high in the mountains of
northern France, Muscat is one of
the four “noble grape” varieties ven-
erated in the region. The wine has a
golden hue and sweet brown spice,
coriander and citrus fruit aromas.
Muscat also is notable as one of the
only white wines with antioxidant
properties, a health benefit usually
found in red wines. “People in Alsace
have figured out to pair white aspar-
agus with dry muscat,” Chang adds.
“In fact, with any vegetable, muscat
stands up very nicely.”
2008 Muscat Cuvée Tradition,
Domaine Hugel et Fils, $20;
2008 Albert Boxler Muscat
Reserve, $20
