Arrive Magazine - November/December, 2008

Discover a New

Condiment Duck Fat 43 Middle St., Portland, Maine 207-774-8080; duckfat.com Everyone talks about the fries here. And for good reason. The potatoes are grown at Skylandia Farm in Aroostook County, cooked in duck fat, served in a cone and are very close to perfect. But there’s something else very special at this tiny (a few tables and some stools at a bar along a brick wall) neighborhood cafe, owned by Rob Evans (Hugo’s) and Nancy Pugh: the truffle ketchup. Sure, there are delicious panini, a $5 milkshake (that goes for $4), soups and salads—even dessert (the churros are popular) and homemade sodas (try the ginger). But there’s nothing like sitting at a cafe table outside on one of Portland’s rare sunny days and dipping your french fry—perfectly crunchy-on-the-outside, warm-airy-and-tender on the inside—into some earthy, rich and satisfying ketchup. Yes, it’s the kind you want to slurp. It’s that good.

restaurant in the city. The New York Times named it the best new restaurant in the country. And Food & Wine called it one of the top 10 in the world. And yet the restaurant is unpretentious, cozy and warm. This could have to do with its intimacy; a former firehouse with brick walls and concrete floors, it has only 37 seats, almost half at the sushi bar. But it more than likely has to do with the food: the most pristine of ingredients showcased with an artist’s eye attuned to appearance, but also flavor and texture. A crispy shiso leaf alongside buttery

zAKeBoWeN

lobster. A tiny microgreen balanced atop the most delicate slice of salmon. A single kumamoto oyster with tiny pearls of watermelon and a cucumber mignonette. These dishes read as if they’re delicate, but you’ll be dazzled.

Forget You’re Miles Away from a Metropolis Swoon Kitchenbar 340 Warren St., Hudson, N. Y. 518-822-8938; swoonkitchenbar.com At Swoon Kitchenbar, you might find a cookbook called Pork & Sons on top of the zinc bar and a guy wearing red suspenders behind it. Bet ween that and the earthen crocks that decorate the lounge and the billowy curtains that soften the dining room, you’ll feel like you’re in a quaint little village in the country. That is, until you eat the food. Nearly all of it is sourced locally, and every provenance is listed on the back of the menu, from the farm that raises the pork to the person who picks the flowers. And it’s delicious (the food; not the flowers). Lusty beef with a rich red wine sauce. Delicate greens with a local blue cheese. Runny poached eggs on duck confit hash potatoes. This is real food, cooked simply and without pretense.

Remember
Fine Dining Is Fun
The White Barn Inn

37 Beach Ave., Kennebunkport, Maine 207-967-2321; whitebarninn.com

These days, it might seem unusual for waiters to wear white tuxedo jackets, especially at a place that’s only a stone’s throw from the beach. But most of the beachgoers at the White Barn Inn probably weren’t making sandcastles with the kids; they likely were lounging on the yacht. Whichever you were doing, you’ll revel in the luxury of the restaurant: its soaring wooden-beamed ceilings and old hay loft, the twinkling of a piano, the affable but professional service. Chef Jonathan Cartwright’s food—scallop on salsify puree with American paddlefish caviar, prawn carpaccio with passionfruit and yuzu, pesto-glazed lamb—is well-balanced and creative, and the restaurant stands tall among the clam shacks and tourists traps, shining a beacon of light for gourmands passing in the night.

AS K LE N N Y AJ Maxwell’s proprietor

Lenny Passerelli was told when he was a young boy to not go into the family business of restaurant ownership. His father wanted him to be a doctor, a lawyer or an accountant. Lenny feels he knows more than any established professional when it comes to life’s unimportant facets,

so he decided to steer clear of his dad’s advice and become a restaurateur. Visit him at AJ Maxwell’s Steakhouse, where the proprietor is happily solving guest’s problems while spewing his daily sermon on the little things in life that matter most.

Q: Lenny, what are your thoughts on the Jets trading for Brett Favre?

Sal, Flushing, N Y

Lenny: I look at this the way I would when I bring in a chef who is an older veteran. Has he lost his arm? In restaurant terms, can he stand under a 1200 degree oven for hours and still have the stamina of a younger chef The Jets spent 140 million dollars this off-season, and they had to make this trade as an older Brett Favre is a major upgrade over what they had before. I think the Jets will win 10 games and make the playoffs as a wild card.

Q: Lenny - I am making my girlfriend a special meal before I propose to her. What should I make?

John, Brooklyn, NY

L: John, here are the essentials:

- Provided she says “yes”, make sure you have a good bottle of Champange on hand.

- Chilled oysters are always a good thing to share and are simple while romantic. A good cocktail sauce is key.

- My proposal meal would be either a dry-aged Rib-eye for two or a Porterhouse for two. Both can be served with creamed spinach and mashed potatoes.

- Dessert could be something light and sexy, like strawberries. This will complement the champagne. Congratulations.

Q: Lenny, I’m having dinner with a group of Investment Bankers this month who really know their wine. What wine goes best with a Surf and Turf

Jake, N YC

L: Jake, the most important thing is to drink what you enjoy regardless of the food. That being said, a sturdy red will go reasonably well with a great steak. Seafood is a little more challenging, especially if you’re looking to pair these two meals together. Go to AJ Maxwells.com where I have put together a video suggesting wine and food pairings available at our restaurant. There are a couple of ideas that might surprise you . You can then impress your Investment Banker buddies with your vast knowledge. Hope this helps you out.