York City’s Tribeca neighborhood. The cocktail den, inspired by Macao in China, which for centuries was a Portuguese colony, elevates the typical street sangria the way Louis Vuitton’s avant-garde design enhances a suitcase. Macao’s sangria is actually a twist on a Portuguese predecessor to sangria, the sangaree, a cocktail of sweetened wine or port spiced with nutmeg, which dates back to the 1800s.
“Part of our creative process was to take a look at where sangaree came from and then reinterpret it in a sophisticated and more crafted way,” co-owner and principal bartender Jason Kosmas explains. The result is what Kosmas deems a “deconstructed and reconstructed” take on sangria. The cocktail combines lemon and sugar– infused brandy with chai-infused tea, Portuguese red wine and almond liqueur, all garnished with candied fruit.
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It’s not news anymore that the restaurant trend toward using fresh, seasonal ingredients has moved from the dinner menu to the cocktail list, but what is astonishing is how long it has taken bartenders to adapt the vogue to sangria—a drink made with fresh fruit and thus ripe for seasonal interpretation.
The trend has certainly caught on now, however, at places such as the minimalist Manhattan restaurant Apiary (where the elegant furniture is all by the contemporary design house Ligne Roset) and the stylish Spanish tapas restaurant Amada in Philadelphia. Depending on the season, Apiary offers two to three sangria variations, from a summer rosé version made with fresh strawberries and kiwis to an autumn spiced pear white sangria flavored with cinnamon, clove and cardamom. At Amada, the cocktail menu includes three sangrias— crisp white and spiced red versions—as well as a changing temporada sangria based on seasonal ingredients. Some recent concoctions: a spiced cranberry sangria made with rosé and port wine and a white wine version with fresh peach, ginger and mint.
So, the next time you want sangria, say adios to the same old red or white and jump at the chance to try something new.
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opening summer 33 West 37th Street New York, NY 212.448.1024 atlanticstars.com
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