draw—vineyards. There are upward of 30 of them dot-
ting the North Fork’s fertile length, so we used our
favorite wines from lunch as our divining rod: Pauma-
I’d settled on the friendly and relaxed Greenporter
Hotel, a favorite among car-less urbanites for being a
five-minute walk from the Long Island Railroad and fer-
nok Vineyards and Bedell Cellars. Over the weekend,
ries to the South Fork, with a cool, modern aesthetic I’d
we’d also develop a taste for the wines at Waters Crest
hoped would suit my newly single state—untrammeled
Winery, founded by a 9/11 fireman, and Anomaly’s
vistas, new horizons, etc. Next time I’ll probably return
deliciously anomalous white pinot noir at Shinn Estate to form with the nearby Orient Inn, a turn-of-the-century
Vineyards. Really, there’s so much bounty to choose
shingle-style home with five bedrooms and a breezy front
from that you can toss a cork in any direction and know porch that uses antiques to great effect: handsome, spare
you won’t go wrong.
I’d heard that the North Fork Table, known for its
elegantly prepared regional produce, seafood and
wines, is the best restaurant around, bar none, but
never felt deserving; heartbreak weekend, of course,
was a different story. Life is slow and easy in this un-
Hampton-y neck of Long Island, so I’d booked an early
reservation—and am so glad I did. The warm, New
England-style décor is just the right balance between
understated and inviting, and the constantly chang-
and completely without that claustrophobic, overdone
feel so common to historic inns.
The next morning we grabbed more cappuccinos
from Aldo’s and embarked on the civilized little ferry
journey over to the South Fork: a 10-minute ride across
Peconic Bay ($9 for car and driver; $2 each additional
passenger), a 10-minute drive across Shelter Island, and
then a three-minute ride into Sag Harbor ($12). Shelter
Island deserves an overnight of its own: Nearly one-third
of its 8,000 acres are owned by The Nature Conservancy,
ing menu inspired and dynamic. We went with the $68
which maintains four nature and bird-watching trails,
three-course prix fixe, feasting on salmon with corn
and the softly rolling paved roads elsewhere are gor-
blini, Block Island fluke crudo, harpooned swordfish
geous for biking. For now, it was just a treat to traverse
with caramelized Brussels sprouts, and pancetta-
it between ferries, like overland explorers sans lugging
wrapped monkfish, among other delights, and closing
cumbersome canoes.
out with an exquisite gingerbread trifle.
Sag Harbor, referenced in Moby Dick, and more
After dinner, sated and perfectly exhausted, we
recently immortalized in Colson Whitehead’s novel
found our way back to our hotel. Back in New York I’d
Sag Harbor, is a trim little village that combines the best
felt silly calling innkeepers and asking if they could
of both Forks without succumbing to either: unspoiled
accommodate three to a room—“Sort of like a very
seaside charm and high-end boutiques tempered by
Left to right:
Vintage items
at Beall & Bell;
a tasty repast
of crab-stuffed
deviled eggs
at Noah’s;
the charming
interior of
Salamander’s;
and a ferry
dock in
Peconic Bay.
quiet and respectful slumber party!” I’d explained.
But this was the North Fork, I was soon reminded, and
everyone I spoke with was happy to oblige. Eventually
vintage and designer consignment shops so appeal-
ing (and reasonable) that by the time we drove away
our mound of shopping bags added up to the bulk of a
