Bet ween 15 and 25 people gather at
Craigie on Main, his bustling, warm bistro.
A few of his relatives and in-laws come
from as far as Persia, Africa “and all over
the map, so there’s a whole bunch of things
that can come to the table at any one time.”
Maws has loved being around food
for as long as he can remember, and
his childhood holidays became even
more important in retrospect because
he was spending time in his grandmoth-
er’s kitchen.
“Cooking was a way to be close to her,
which was very special to me,” he says.
“The smells and the thrill of being asked
to help—it made the holidays more fun to
look forward to because you get to do all
this great stuff.”
And today, he can’t help but do great
stuff. He makes one traditional roast
turkey each year, but “the other one, I’m
always screwing around with,” he says.
“I’ve smoked it. I’ve cooked it sous vide.”
The family pulls together all the tables
at the restaurant to make one long one,
and the dishes are served family style.
“I don’t want to dis the kids’ table,” he
says, “but there’s something that’s really
emotional. Here I am at the end of the
table, I’m looking down and looking at all
these phenomenal people all together, all
the people that have meant so much to
me over the years—it’s a great moment.”
Like most people in the hospitality
business, Maws also gets a great deal of
satisfaction from feeding people who
really appreciate it. Last year, he walked a
homemade turkey across Massachusetts
Avenue to his neighborhood firehouse.
He says that to make your own holiday
meal even more special, there’s nothing
like helping others enjoy one, too.
A
CELEBRATION
OF
DOYLESTOWN
WEST TRENTONDELAWARE VALLEY COLLEGE
NORRISTOWN
CHESTNUT
TRANSIT CTR. MALVERN
HIGHLAND
THORNDALE
José Andrés
WASHINGTON, D.C.
José Andrés knows the feeling.
One Thanksgiving, Andrés found
himself with a lot of turkeys. He had
been trying to order heritage-breed
turkeys online, and when he checked
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