Food & Drink
Secrets of the Sauce
Philadelphia’s
century-old Italian
restaurants balance tradition
and modernity to
stay relevant in
an ever-changing
culinary landscape
BY STACIA FRIEDMAN
PHOTOGRAPHY B T AARON KOTOWSKI
If a restaurant lasts two years, it’s considered a success. If it lasts a century,
it’s an institution. And a miracle. Which
is why I decided to poke into the kitchens
of three landmark Italian restaurants—
Ralph’s, Dante & Luigi’s Corona di Ferro
and The Victor Cafe—that have been in
Philadelphia since before horsepower
was a metaphor. My hope was to learn
what has helped them how to survive in a
fickle industry that sees so much failure.
Join the Family
Like all self-respecting Italian restau-
rants, whether real or those depicted in
Martin Scorsese films, when you come
to Ralph’s, you’re family. Make that a
large, boisterous Neapolitan family from
the isle of Ischia. Wearing a belt? Loosen
it. Portion control is not spoken here.
Tables are close. Conversation bounces
o; the white tile walls. Waiters as nimble
as blackjack dealers slap down steaming
platters of calamari, mussels, and sausage
and peppers. Owner-chef Jimmy Rubino
pops out of the kitchen to schmooze with
regulars and make first-timers feel at
home. You want something that’s not on
the menu? No problem. Rubino will whip
something up for you.
