Arrive Magazine - May/June 2012

A P;;; S;;;;;

;Since its 2004 opening, Pazo has become Baltimore’s most stylish spot to see and be seen. Small wonder, given this Harbor East standout’s dramatic, high-ceilinged space and its exciting mix of fine wines, dining and music.

Ask proprietor and wine director Tony Foreman about Pazo, however, and the first thing you’ll hear is praise for the “life and soul” of the place, executive chef Mario Cano-Catalan. These are apt words to describe this chef’s singular take on Mediterranean cuisine, and a fitting emphasis on what makes Pazo truly special—it all starts with the food.

Pazo’s varied o;erings draw on the “hedonistic” cuisine of the rustic Spanish coast and Italian isles. Seasonal ingredients, sourced from about two-dozen farms in the region, are central to the ever-changing menu, as are cooking methods designed to impart unique flavors and textures. Chef Cano-Catalan puts the kitchen’s wood-burning grill to use with great precision and skill in the preparation of meat dishes such as the New York strip steak with olive oil crushed potatoes and mojo picón sauce, imbued with remarkable flavor from the local hardwood. Pazo’s take on seafood paella with la bomba rice, meanwhile, benefits from shrimp cooked on a traditional planxa, an olive oil- and sea salt-rubbed piece of steel heated to 600 degrees that sears seafood in its own juices—with the whole dish then baked in a wood-burning oven that crisps the rice on the top and bottom.

Spring at Pazo brings a bounty of preparations making use of local produce such as heirloom tomatoes and asparagus.

Plump and colorful tomatoes are simple yet sublime with sea salt, olive oil and bu;alo mozzarella. The sandy soil of Maryland’s eastern shore providing what may be the best asparagus in the country, the vegetable finds its way into a number of dishes between late April and mid-June—from tapas pairings with serrano and iberico ham to succulent, planxa-seared merluza with asparagus and hollandaise sauce, a Spanish classic.

Pazo’s extensive and well-considered wine list—with an emphasis, of course, on Spanish varietals and blends—covers a wide range of price points, with suggested pairings on the menu. There’s even a house-label red and white, now in its eighth vintage. Complementing the wines are more than 30 craft cocktails, updated seasonally.

Of course, Pazo is more than outstanding food and drink.
From the e;ortlessly chic vibe of the ground floor bar and
lounge to the more formal dining space upstairs, part of this
restaurant’s appeal lies in its ability to accommodate a variety
of occasions and moods. On Friday and Saturday nights, the
mood turns decidedly festive. The second floor’s mezzanine
seating gives diners a front-row seat to Baltimore’s best
people-watching. Sunday nights o;er a change
of pace, with live classical Spanish guitar during
dinner, providing a touch of serenity at the end of
the weekend frenzy.

If you’re from Baltimore, you know Pazo. But if you’re not, you’ve just discovered what Zagat calls a “knockout,” from table to bar to kitchen to Spanish guitar.